Archive for May, 2009
Making Homemade Pasta
May 21st, 2009Yummo
May 20th, 2009Had a great cooking class today that lasted 5 hours in a home that was built in the 1500’s by a person that makes her own wine and has her own roaring winery business. We made homemade pastas, tiramasu, and eggplant. its 10 hours later now from when we started, and I’m still full. Obviously when i catch up on my journals, youll see.
Fattoria Resta
May 20th, 2009May 20
We piled all 6 of us into the tiny volvo convertable. It was tight. We closed the roof so that we’d be less visible to the local police, and we drove over to Fattoria Resta where we were scheduled to meet and have a cooking class with Anna Lisaat 10:00 am. Anna Lisa lives in a former monastery that even houses its very own chapel. We received a tour of the grounds that has a great view out towards Montalcino. She showed us her gardens, and of course her vineyards where she grows mostly sangiovese grapes that produces a wine that yields approximately 4, 000 bottles per year. She took us down to the wine cellar and on the way we passed a stone inscription that basically said that Napoleon stayed there back in the 1805. Once down in the cellar she told us a wonderful story of how they named their wine. In the cellar etched on the stone wall, was an inscription that was chiseled by the builder, Martin del Nero in 1573. The carving was a humble prayer asking for blessings on the cellar, and hopes that he did a good job tending the land, and that he was sorry if he did not. Anna Lisa was touched by the humility and tenderness of this prayer that she named her wine after him. The wine recently scored 87 pts from the Wine Spector. She described for us the white feather artwork her friend made for the label and how she didn’t want a very pretentious crest label. It was a great tour, a great property and what was the beginning of a great day.
It was now time to cook. On top of caring for the grounds, running a winery, having a family, Anna Lisa has a passion for cooking. Today we were going to cook a fine Italian meal together. You may have jumped ahead of yourself and already seen the pictures of our noodles, or read my mom’s site, but we also made focaccia bread, eggplant with tomato and mozzarella, and tiramisu for desert.
We donned our aprons and began with the focaccia bread. We kneaded it out and seasoned half of it with her special seasoning, and half with some fresh herbs. We then started on the noodles. We were making pinci and tagliatelle noodles. Pinci is made from just water and flour and the ladies took turns mixing the flour and the water right in a pile on the table. Once there was a dough, they cut strips and then came the hard part of rolling the noodle. We all tried. Most of us failed. It’s an act of rolling the noodle between your palm and the table so that it becomes perfectly round, shaped like a pencil. Most of us had the problem of squishing it flat instead of keeping it round. It was very frustrating, and a lot of work for a pasta noodle. But I thoroughly enjoyed the attempt, and later the eating.
The next noodle we made was tagliatelle, a long flat noodle that is similar to a fettuccine noodle. This dough we took and spread through a pasta machine/roller over and over till it stretched and thinned itself out. There was more pasta than space on the table so our long strands would sometimes be touching. We learned the hard way that this was not good, as the noodle dough would stick to each other and we’d have to back track a little. Steve and Lisa ran the noodles through the machine over and over till we had a really large flat pasta, which we later sliced into noodles. This was a really fun experience. I once attempted to make a fettuccini noodle on my own back in high school. Without the machine to stretch and thin the noodle, I tried it by hand and rolling pin. I was always proud of myself, but my noodle definetly was thick and not so great back then.
Our next dish was eggplant. I have had eggplant once or twice in my life and did not enjoy it at all. Anna Lisa taught us a trick. We thinly sliced the eggplant and placed it on a rectangle pan. We drizzled it with sauce and then found something heavy to place on it. We let it sit for about 30 minutes and the salt and the pressure would leak out the bitter flavors leaving a fine tasting eggplant. After letting it sit and soak all its horrible juices out, we patted them dry and then topped them with tomatoes and mozzarella and put them in the oven.
The final dish we prepared was Tiramisu. Much like eggplant, I have never been a fan of tiramisu. However, I would later find out that this was the best one I have ever tasted. It was a simple recipe where we took these Italian cookies, that were these thin wafers. We dunked them in espresso, but we had to dunk them really fast so that it would merely coat it, but not soak in it. Then in a dish it was a layer of coated cookie, followed by a layer of mascarpone cheese, then another layer of cookie. We did this till we reached the top, and then we grated fresh chocolate on top. We let it set in the refrigerator till desert time.
I loved our cooking kitchen. It was quaint and we had herbs, olive oil, and flour spread across this table that the 7 of us worked around. We were all dressed up in our aprons as well. It was very picturesque.
We made some tomato based sauce and then we sat down on the patio to enjoy the cooking, the wine, and each other’s company. We drank some white wine with the appetizer of the focaccia (the side with her spices was the best!) and some artichokes and homemade pate. Then it was the main dish time where we ate both of the pastas, drank some of her Martin del Nero red wine. I could not get enough. It was delicious!
And now for desert. Wow. I have never tasted tiramisu so tasty. It was very light in flavor and was a perfect finish to a grand time. Although, I could have easily gone for more pasta if only I had room.
We took a group picture and said our farewells. I knew that I would never forget this experience. It was splendid and perfect. Anna Lisa was such a gracious, kind, and fun host today. Thank you from the bottom of our hearts for blessing my family with your time, your spirit, and your great teachings. We had a delightful day that we will not forget.
We left her place around 3:00 PM and made our way back to Montalcino. We parked the car and started our 10-40 minute walk back to the apartment (depending on whom I was walking with). On our walk we stopped at one of the cathederal’s where my mom played the organ. As we further progressed through the town, my parents told me stories of Montalcino and how they have 4 quadrants that take communal competitive pride with each other.
The rest of our evening went like this: grocery store, walk through town, ceramic shop, wine, shop, wine, finished with meats, cheeses, and more wine on the patio.
Tuscany has a charm of its own.
What A Pitti
May 19th, 2009May19th
Today we are leaving to go to Montalcino. However, we do not meet up with JeanE and Kathie till 5pm at the train station, so we have the whole day here in Florence. However, due to my mom’s fall, she can barely move as her whole side is in pain. So we decide to do very minimal today. Nope, we will not be hitting the Pitti Palace or the gardens as intended. I actually didn’t mind as I wasn’t really looking forward to that long hike again up the hill. If I could have done something tourist this day though, I think I would have hit the Duomo museum (Mary Magdalene statue) or the Borgello museum (Donatello’s David and other sculptures).
After a great night of food and fun, and lots of wine, it was a slow moving morning. We took our time eating breakfast, and then packed up our rooms and left our baggage with the front desk. And then we just sat in the bar area. We discussed things like bidet usage, we did work on the Internet and computer, and we looked at pictures. My dad ran all over town looking for my moms cross necklace, chain, and angel pin. He was successful on 2 of the 3, but quite sweaty after literally running around.
We ate lunch down the street at a pizza place, and we were approached by a lady about a charitable organization.
We head thru the market one last time for shopping. My mom bought more scarfs, probably, I don’t really remember. But it was time for last minute shopping in Florence before we headed out. We got towards the end of the market, and we sat my mom down, left her a couple bags, and my dad’s camera. Then the 3 of us walked back to the hotel to grab all the luggage.
We got the luggage and then trekked it through the town. Luggage is heavy when you are carrying multiple pieces for multiple blocks. We have had to do these long walks usually when we first get to a city, and when we leave the city. I didn’t want to get any hotels right near the train station, as that tends to be more of the seedy parts of town, as well as a little bit of distance from the city centers.
We made it back to my mom, and then trekked through the city some more until we arrived at the train station. We were scheduled to meet our new travelers here, as they were coming in from Venice.
We waited about 20 minutes, protecting our bags from pick-pockets and crowds, and eventually JeanE and Kathie met up with us at the McDonald’s there. We then walked to binari 2 and waited about 45 minutes for our train.
We took the train, and the first stop was about 5 minutes away, it was a secondary Florence stop. Then it seemed that everyone got on the train. Meanwhile, my dad is asking my mom for the camera and she has no idea where she put it, or if she even had it. I have visions right now of when my dad emptied the entire suitcase of clothing once, in the paris airport, looking for something that K.C had misplaced. We have stacks of luggage now, all over the seats on top of each other, and there is no way he could possibly do that now. Though, I am sure he wants to. He is frustrated and agitated, as travelling with many people is not easy. We try to calm him down by letting him know that at this point, its either in the bags, or its not, and there is nothing he can do. But more than likely, it is somewhere in the bags and we will find it when we reach our destination.
It’s really crowded on the train right now, and we have our luggage taking up seats and people are irritated with us. This Italian guy sat down across from Lisa and is breathing his bad breath in sighs of frustration on us. I’m having a hard time concentrating on typing and its really hot and uncomfortable. I think it must be train rush hour time. Meanwhile, my dad is irritated because he thinks that he may have lost the camera or misplaced it somewhere in Florence. Meanwhile, we have met up with 2 new travelers and so there is always transition time of getting used to people and group dynamics. I am curious to see how this will all work out.
We sit on the train for about 20 minutes without it moving, when over the speaker in Italian, they announce that the train is having problems and we would need to exit and find a new train. Brilliant.
We hop off the train, high-tail it to a different track, only to see the train that we really wanted, was just leaving a different track. We hop on a new train. Lisa runs down the track to ask the conductor if it is the train we want, and he says no. We all quickly jump off the train with our luggage before it takes us to an unknown destination. We eventually find the right track, after lugging the luggage up and down stairs. At one point, I thought there was a nice citizen. I was carrying multiple bags (mine, Lisa’s, Jeane’s…I don’t remember anymore), and taking my time up the stairs. Someone came by and grabbed the side of one of the bags, and helped me carry it to the top. How nice! How kind and caring these Italians are.
Five minutes later, he came by begging for change. I was set up. The “norm of reciprocity” strikes again. Eventually our train arrived, and it was the nicest train we had been on yet. We enjoyed a 2 hour train ride through the country side. We were covered with green hills. It was beautiful.
We arrived at the Buonconvento train station and saw for the first time my parents new car. While my dad was walking the couple blocks to pick it up, we rummaged through our bags and found his missing camera. He will be so happy. Because they have a convertible, we couldn’t fit everyone (this time) and our luggage so Lisa and I stayed behind to wait for trip #2.
We walked thru the streets of Buonconvento, used the restroom, checked out the 7-11 type convenient store, and eventually sat outside the tiny train station at a little restaurant and ate a snack of pasta with bolognese sauce.
Dad came back and picked us up, and we drove the 10 minutes to Montalcino, with the stars above us, the top down, and my dad blasting Michael W. Smithmusic because its the song on his ipod that gets the most bass and he wanted me to experience the woofer in the back. Very funny when a 1980’s Christian pop/worship music singer is your idea of heavy bass. It was a beautiful drive. One that I wish we could do again, over and over. It was a very pleasant evening and it was nice with the wind in our hair.
We arrived in town, walked our bags up and down hills and made it to the cute little apartment with a fabulous view of the green country side. There was pizza waiting, and jugs, yes, jugs of wine waiting. We ate, we drank, we looked out through the peaceful valley, and we enjoyed catching up with everyone.
Ciao Firenze
May 19th, 2009I know that I owe write ups on the Cinque Terre still, and then Florence. Hopefully I can accomplish that on the train today. Its our last day in Florence. We catch the 5pm train to Montalcino tonight. Last night we had a great dinner that Mom commented would be one of the half dozen meals that she remembers for the rest of her life.
With A Stroke Of Gelato
May 17th, 2009May 17th
My parents were set to arrive this morning by train, and we were scheduled to meet them at the doors of the baptistry. We set a meeting place for the right doors, if facing the Duomo at 10:00 am. This went off mostly without a hitch and we were reunited and all speaking Italian. Ok, we threw in a couple Italian words, and said our hello’s and hugs. But who are we kidding, our Italian is very minimal. Every time my Dad tries to speak or say an Italian word, he starts saying words in Spanish. My mom says “his Spanish has never been better.” My mom will say “figlio” over and over, and her other one is “we’re andiamo-ing.” Myself? I have had impeccable Italian (tho, I may not be able to spell it). Due adulti biglietie per favore.
Let me back track for a moment. This will go down as one of my favorite memories, and something I will always smile and laugh at. Lisa has had some Italian experiences, being from an Italian family, and having lived in Italy for language school once. So I had requested of her to write a paragraph of italian sentences for me, to greet my parents with to impress them with how much Italian I knew. She kept asking me what I wanted to say, and I really didn’t care, mainly a salutation.
So last night, after we had been back from dinner for a little bit, and we were half asleep, she starts chattering. She starts telling me “I know what you should say to your parents when they arrive: Welcome to Firenze, with a stroke of gelato.” It made zero sense, but cracked me up. I think she was thinking “stroke of genius,” but said gelato instead. I think she was either part asleep, or tipsy from wine, or exhausted from all the walking we have been doing. I know it doesn’t make much sense but it made me crack up so much, and will always make me smile.
httpvhd://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Efcx7Z_CtM
One of my dad’s desires was to get an Italian leather jacket. For the price and quality, I knew that Florence would be the place for him to do this. So after they arrived, we decided to go shop at the Florence central market. I described the market briefly yesterday, and today it was time for more shopping.
Even though this market stretches for many many square blocks, my parents wanted to buy the first stand they came across. I had to remind them that every 3rd stand was a wallet, or shirt, or knick-knack, or leather stand. I also reminded them that this was a place that, you didn’t have to, but you could barter and haggle for a better price. We shopped for scarves, wallets, belts, soccer jerseys, t-shirts, and of course my dad’s leather jacket.
We came across a stand, and he pointed out to me the style he wanted. It was a two tone between dark brown and light brown. I asked “are you a woman?”
We started browsing, and of course, the salesman calls him into the store directly behind his stand. Now he is trying on jackets left and right, and getting himself sold. He is already in too deep with this sales rep. Once you give them an inch, they will take a yard.
My dad explained the style of jacket (two tone) that he wanted, and the sales person said “no, that is a ladies style.” We ended up hearing many different sales lines as they started bartering for the jacket that he decided he wanted.
“This is the last one we have.”
“You won’t find a better deal.”
“This is the sort of deal I would only give my brother.”
And as soon as my dad said “no, I’ll think about it and come back,” the salesman started offering the jacket to the next person in the store and started saying “shame on you for not taking this deal, it is the best you will find. Its the equivalent to two pizza’s and a bottle of wine.”
I felt that my dad had gone too deep into the bartering game, and had gotten too good of a price, to walk away now. It was the jacket that he wanted, and a darn good price. Eventually we convinced him that he should do it, instead of searching for 5 euros cheaper. But this process will be one that I cherish and remember and laugh at about the trip.
httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=219nKUBecmY
We made our way over near the Accademia to find a place that Rick Steeve’s recommended in his book, for lunch. On our walk there, we ran into a lady and her daughter, that were currently living in Montalcino, that my parents had befriended. We ate lunch, and then made our way over to the Accademia for our appointed time to see Michelangelo’s David, as well as some of his pieta’s and other pieces.
There is one statue of David, and many many replica’s around the world. Even here in Florence, there is a replica in the Piazza della Signoria–the original location of the statue. Mark my words: The replica’s are good an all, but they do not possess the grandeur of the original. The original is far more powerful, angelic, graceful, and humble than any other of the many replicas. My parents had previously taken a day trip to Florence and looked at the David replica and said: “The copy of the statue of “David” by Michelangelo in the public square was good enough, rather than face more lines to see the original.” I believe she would now say, after seeing the original, that she was very mistaken.
I remember back in 1997 (and I wrote about it recently), being literally blown away at the first site of the David. I walked into this room, more like a long hallway, and my eyes were drawn to these half finished statues that Michelangelo had done, that lined the sides of the hall. As soon as I took my eyes off the floor and the side statues, and looked up and down the hallway, I saw it, in its white brilliance, and fell backwards (not fall as in hit the floor, but fall as in had to take a few steps back to keep my balance).
I didn’t feel the same magnitude of awe, respect, and strength this time as I did my first, but I was still amazed and taken by its beauty and its determination. Last time I was here, they allowed pictures, and you could walk right up to the David. This time, no pictures were allowed, and they had a perimeter around the statue. I was also reading on this time, of the statue being attacked by a man with a hammer back in 1991. The pieces that broke off, eventually were studied, and the marble was found to be porous, which caused them to worry about cleaning with water that it undertook in 2003.
We sat and stared at his ass, his slingshot draping down his back, and the veins in his arms and legs for awhile, in sheer amazement.
We then headed towards the Santa Croce Church, and the Pazzi Chapel. Santa Croce is a large church that has a cool temperature inside, many naves lined with fresco art, and many tombs of famous Italians, such as Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Foscolo, Gentile, Rossini, and Marconi. Our tickets were designed with pictures of small snippets of the art inside the church. We played a game of “try and find your snippet” that was a fun treasure hunt.
Connected to the Santa Croce, is the Pazzi Chapel. I think this is a really beautiful chapel. It is simple. It is elegant. It is small. It has elegant simplicity. It was designed by Brunelleschi and is a pattern of arches, circles and squares. The walls are mostly bare except for a few areas of art. I think I could sit in the chapel, alone, and meditate for hours.
We grabbed a gelato from the “famous” gelato shop that my dad had to try and then started our long walk to the Piazza Michelangelo. Down the river, cross the bridge, up the hill, up the steep many stairs; this was a lot to ask of my mom and the status of her knees. We finally reached the top and soaked in the view (with a trillion pictures) of the city of Florence and the river arno. It was beautiful. Then, my Mom decided she wanted to go further up.
We hiked further up the road to San Miniato al Monte church. There was a vespers going on and so we wandered the cold sanctuary while monks were chanting. There is a great view up here as well, and afterwards we took a funny picture of Steve, Debbie, and Lisa all pretending to be statues. Each of them had no idea what pose the other was going to do, yet they all ended up with a very similar pose.
It had been a long day of walking, and now my favorite part of the day: dinner! We went to one of the restaurants that Rick Steeve’s recommended and I must say, this one was a dud. Although I enjoyed the family style atmosphere, the service and the food were very lacking.
Nothing a gelato couldn’t solve on the way home. We stopped for a bit to enjoy the statues in Piazza Signoria. What a day! It was great to be here with family, and to experience so many awe inspiring things.
The Bridge Of Lame
May 16th, 2009It is bad enough when they put scaffolding up on ancient buildings, but when they do and then they plaster it with advertisement wallpaper, that just sucks. The famous bridge of sighs was not only wallpapered on both sides, but also above. Below is the picture I took, and beneath that is what it is supposed to normally look like.
Firenze
May 16th, 2009Just uploaded two new posts from my time in Venice. Did not get a chance to do the spell check though, sorry. I was also able to get the youtube inserted into the san siro milan game post. We are in Florence right now. I have not had a chance to write about Cinque Terre yet, or our travel problems, but soon enough. My parents arrive here tomorrow and we will go see David, as well as the next day we will take a segway tour.
Ran into Josh Wold yesterday near the Ponte Vecchio. Crazy.