Archive for May, 2009

Friends In Florence

May 15th, 2009

May 15th 

ilpirata_smWent to Il Pirata for breakfast and enjoyed a couple of delicious Sicilian pastries, and then we caught the train to La Spezia then Pisa and finally on to Florence, having to change trains at each station.  Carting luggage up and down stairways onto the wrong tracks and then finally to the correct Binari.

Arrived and exited the Firenze train station, but exited the wrong side of the station, and then started walking in the wrong direction away from the city of Florence.  Oops.  400 yards away, we asked for directions to the Duomo, and was told to go back the direction we came from.  

We found our way to the hotel, and it was a beautiful hotel in which part of it was a museum as it used to house a roman bath, a jail, and a lookout point.  It definitely was the 4 star hotel that it advertised itself as–at least compared to the other places we have stayed.

republica_smAfter checking in we took a little stroll to Piazza Republica and ate a pizza and some wine.  Following that, we headed towards the duomo, to check out its graceful, colorful beauty.

After our 7 hour hike yesterday, we were kind of interested in a massage, and so when we stumbled across a place that looked like one, we headed in to examine it.  But it was mainly a tanning and waxing place that was a little odd, and they had no openings for massage.

Spent some time on the Internet, and then walked towards the River Arno to find a restaurant.  We went down the street next to the Arno, but there wasn’t anything interesting there.  So we crossed the Ponte Vecchio to the other side, and guess who I saw at the base of the bridge?

I noticed the back of his hair and the side of his face first.  I’m less than a foot away from him, and I realize that it is a Wold brother.  Was it Josh?  Jeremy?  I don’t recollect the name at first.  I say “Josh Wold!” but didn’t get a response.  Then I said “Jeremy Wold” and didn’t get a response.  But then I realized that it was Josh, and said it even louder.  This time he turned around.  

Josh is the brother of one of my dearest friends, David Wold whom I met and lived with in college.  Josh was currently living in Holland, and was merely in Florence for the weekend.

pvech_smWe had a short conversation and then continued on our ways.  Why is it, when travelling on trips like this, that it is bound to happen that you run into someone that you know?  That has happened to me frequently.  When has it happened to you?  and with whom?

I took a picture of the Bibo restraunt where we all ate 11 years ago.  They weren’t quite open yet so we went to a nearby restaurant where our waiter Victor entertained us with his friendliness.

The Italian Sausage And The Trek For Ta-Ta’s

May 14th, 2009

manarola_sm9 hours of travel yesterday, today we had planned what eventually became a 7 hour hike.  That is right, we are officially crazy.

The Cinque Terre is a series of 5 towns that are right on the west coast of Italy, built into the cliffs and walls of the Ligurian Sea.  Each town is really beautiful, full of pastel buildings,  right on the water.  It is my goal to touch the water in each town.

Today we woke up and caught the 930 am train back to town one of the five (we are staying in town 4, Vernazza).  We were going to do the hike that connects all 5 towns.  We started in Riomaggiore at about 10am.  We walked through the town and touched the water at the bottom, and then started the walk on the via del amore.

guvano_smOur first walk was about 20 minutes of length,from Riomaggiore to Manarola on the edge of a cliff over looking gorgeous blue water.  It was really pleasant. In Manarola we sampled a couple of different focacia breads.  One with olives, and one plain. The walk between Manarola an Corniglia was about 45 minutes.  In this  town 3:  Corniglia, we had to walk up 400 stairs as this town is high above the water on the cliffs.

In Corniglia we enjoyed a slice of pizza and some more bubbly water and enjoyed a gorgeous view off of a precipice.

We knew from our guide book, that there was a nude beach somewhere near Corniglia.  I wanted to give it a try.  You can call it an attempt to be european, you can call it an attempt to swim in the town, you can call it an attempt to site italian ta-ta’s.  Whatever you want to call it, it was well worth it (though, only 2 of those 3 came true).

After hiking through some jungle like alleys in some thick green bushes, we finally came across some signs for Guvano beach.  We were high up a cliff, how were we possibly going to get to the water far below?  This path that the sign directed us towards, was narrow, and extremely steep.  One slip of the foot, and it was a long tumble. During one stretch, they had some wires that you could hang onto as it was that steep.

It took us about  30 sweaty harrowing minutes to reah the water below.  This beach was all rocks. The water was crashing on some rocks in the ocean as well.  The beach was occupied by one tan bald, well built man sunning in one direction, face down and naked when we walked by.  Over in another corner were 3 ladies that were clothed in bathing suits.

We found a little spot, and put our stuff down.  I dropped my clothes and laid out the way God intended.  Including us, there were 6 people on this beach, and sadly it was only the two guys that were going European style.  My trek for italian ta-ta’s continues.

beach_smThe italian man kept turning over, eventually facing himself directly towards us.  I didn’t fully trust him, and therefore unfortunately, had to keep my eye on him.  He was definitely trying to show off for the ladies (or was it me), and I decided to call him the Italian Sausage.

I put my clothes back on, and was readying myself to leave, when the other ladies got up and started walking off.  He started putting his clothes on.  So we sat down again and waited, and when they were all gone, I took off my clothes again and started frolicing in the waves.  It was refreshing and cleansing after all the hiking of the day.

Five or ten minutes later we began our hike back up the steep hill again which took us another 30 minutes up steep cliffs, stairs, even having to crawl in a couple of spots.  Once back to the trail, it took us a good nother 60 minutes to reach town 4, Vernazza. We were, tired, and my legs were even shaking from all this exercise.  This day was a tough workout underneath the italian sun.

cinque_smWe didn’t traverse the entire town of Vernazza, since this is the town we were sleeping in and had already explored it.  However, we did stop at Il Pirata (the much famed Il Pirata-at leas the owners “the Cannoli Brothers” would tell you).  Here we refreshed ourselves with some fresh granita:  half strawberry, half lemon, with a touch of cream on top.  Refreshing, delicious, and just what we needed before beginning our final 90-100 minute hike to town #5.

Most of these hikes have been up and down steep and tiny paths.  This final hike was no different.  It was so pretty though, with ocean and cliff on one side of you, green plants at our feets, and to the right there were miles of vineyards growing up the hills.  This is the italian coast.  The climate here is so nice that it can grow all sorts of plants from different climates.  We passed farfalle (butterflies), yellow and purple flowers, cactus, tall grass, and many more.octupus_sm

When town 5 arrived, I wanted to crash.  It was Montorosso Al Mare, and it was a long stretch of beach.  We got a gelato and tried to explore some of the town, but we were exhausted.  We walked around a little bit, but then plopped down on the beach.  I climbed into the water and I had now swam in 3 of the 5 towns, and touched the water in all 5.  After 7 hours of hiking, it was quite a cleansing experience.

We caught the train an went back to Vernazza where we showered (though, mine used all the hot water and left lisa with cold) and then started some new sweaty laundry.  We hiked up the hill near the water to Il Castelo restaurant.  We tried to make reservations for 90 minutes later so that we could finish the laundry.  The waiter did not recommend later for some reason (it later rained), and so we sat immediately.

vernazza_smWe ordered the antipasti mare which was a cold and a fried plate of seafood appetizers.  There was octupus, swordfish, prawns, mussels, anchovies, fried anchovies, and many other strange looking items, most with bones or eyes still attached.  All this to go along with, of course, some wine and a terriffic view.

After the appetizers, lisa ran back to the laundromat and changed our wash to the dryer.  For dinner was a large plate (for 2) of seafood risotto, and some pasta with meat sauce and pesto.  The seafood risotto was full of many more items that I had no idea how to eat.  Lisa didn’t have any risotto, and just when I was wishing there was someone to share it with, so it wouldn’t go to waste, the couple next to us from Quebec asked us how it was.  We shared it with them, and enjoyed some conversations.  They even demonstrated for us how to de-head and legs the prawns to get to the meat.

cannoli_smWe had a lovely time and as the rain started to go down, we walked up to the other side of town to Il Pirata and ordered 2 cannoli for take away.  Took them to our rooms, ate them, and slept peacefully.

I Just Got Lost, Every River That I Tried To Cross

May 12th, 2009

May 12

We awoke to street noises and the st. mark’s bell and then got our day started around 9am.  We debated heading all the way back to the train station to check the schedule for our exit the next day, but instead decided to hit the internet cafe.  I also was needing to email our next hotel as they wanted notice a few days in advance, of our approximate arrival time.

We got to the internet cafe, and it was not due to open for another 15 minutes, so we found a nearby street cafe and had an espresso and a cappichino.  It was my first attempt (I think) at an espresso and I must say it was quite bitter, I think I eventually had a bigger sugar to coffee ratio.  However, I had most of lisa’s cappichino and it was the best one yet of the trip.

The cafe opened and we took care of buisness.  At that point we decided to get on a water bus and make our way across the backside of the canal and go to a few churces across the way.  But once on the bus, we had front seats in the air, we didn’t want to get off at the 3rd stop.  So we decided to stay on for all 15 stops and then get off at the last stop and do the Accademia museum instead.  We were enjoying our cheap bus ride, in the open air.  Part of me thought we should just go round and round all day.  It was that much fun.  Though, we got off at the Accademia museum, and before going in the museum, ate some pizza at a cafe right outside.  Mike would have loved this pizza because it was not very high quality and tasted like it was frozen pizza from back home.  Lisa barely made it through a slice, and I wasn’t gonna leave it.  

There was no line for the museum and it was not very crowded.  It started with some byzantine art, but worked our way through art by Veronese, Bellini, Giogiorne, and some Tintoretto’s.  I recall from my trip in 1997, that my favorite two items from this place was The Tempest by San Giogiorne and The Feast in the House of Levi by Veronese.  I’m not sure why I included the Tempest, because on further review, there wasn’t much special to it.  Although, it had a long and complicated history, so maybe that is what I found so pleasing.  Veronese however, I think I really like.  I like many of his pieces, and The Feast I think is one of my favorites.  I also like the story and history behind it.  It takes up a giant wall and is full of details.  I think I could spend hours looking at it.

redentore_sm

Part of me wishes that there were some great museums with just one or two pieces of art.  I think I’d like to once, just sit for 2 hours in front of one piece, reflecting, praying, writing, and seeing what thoughts come to mind.  But in days of fast travel, and even quicker society, there isn’t time for that.  Maybe one day.

Speaking of speed, we made it through that museum in a mere 45 minutes.  Hopped back onto the water bus, with intentions and determinations this time of getting to the churches across the way.  The first church was called Il Redentore (the Redeemer).  This church is beautiful.  Not only is it pretty, but every nave seemed to have a great piece of art by Tintoretto.  I loved the arches, and the domes and the perked ceilings.  I snapped a couple of pictures, but then got reprimanded, albeit kindly.  Il Redentore has a cool background story.

sangiogiore_smWe walked a few blocks and then realized that we needed another water bus, and found our way to San Giogore church.  Lisa enjoyed the beauty of this one more than the last.  It is a gorgeous church with a large campinelle.  It housed great works of art, and we could take pictures more freely, and explore more depths of the choirs and main basillica.  We took the elevator up the campinelle for great views of Venice.  As Dr. Carlander would have said, “beautiful.”  Lisa must be getting at least slightly annoyed, as I keep reminicing about when I was here last, travelling with school, enjoy the friendship of Andrew.  Some things that we are doing, such as visiting these 2 churches, were things that I did and enjoyed so much before.

Along those lines, after San Giogore, we took a water bus to the San Salute church, which when I was here, was our stop.  I was attempting to find my way back to the hotel I stayed at before, so I could show her where we would climb in and out of the window, and how it was right across from where a famous poet once lived. We found the Hotel Messener, but despite going in every alley, could not find my window or the poets house.

tintoretto_smWe traversed over bridges, through alleys, across squares and then more bridges and found our way back to our room.  I did some Snide prep work and we rested.  Then, we went back to the itnernet cafe where I spent a frustrating 2 hours trying to publish my Snides.  The attempt to upload a video to youtube kept failing, I would get typed and insert a bunch of photos and tags, and then the computer or server would freeze and when I would re-enter into the right page, I’d find that I lost 20-30 minutes of work.  We kept buying 30 minute increments, and eventually I completed (all but the youtube video) of my posts up until Venice.

We then walked about 45 minutes looking for the perfect place to enjoy our last meal in Venice.  Sadly, we didn’t find the perfect place, but gave up  looking cause we were tired of walking, and energetic for food.  I had a caprese that was substandard and Lisa ate some very good minnestrone soup.  My next plate was Spaghetti Pomodoro which was very delicious, and she had a pizza Margerhita that was substandard.  All of this chased down by frizzante (Peligrino).

We made our way back to our hotel, stopping briefly to take some very nice pictures in St. Mark’s square, as the sky light was perfect.  We tried to set an alarm lisa downloaded for her computer as we were going to attempt to wake up at 5:00 am so that we could catch the 6:00 am water bus, that would get us to the train station by 6:30 so that we could catch the 7:20 train ride to the Cinque Terre.  This train ride would take approximatley 7 hours so we didn’t want to miss the early train as the next one was 2 hours later and wouldn’t get us to our destination till 6pm.

Needless to say, I was not expecting a great night of sleep, as I had my doubts on if the alarm would work.  Little did I know, that it was going to be an even worse night of sleep than I expected and would still end in failure, with slight redemption.

stmarksdusk_sm

Bye Venice

May 12th, 2009

Just uploaded a lot of snide’s, although with computer issues.  We leave tomorrow morning from venice at 5 am for a 7 hour train ride to the cinque terre.  Ciao Bellisimo

Venezia

May 12th, 2009

I have about 5 or 6 posts already typed out, just no internet to post them.  I am in Venice right now getting lost.  I think I will have a chance once I reach the Cinque Terre tomorrow to do some posting.  Much love.

Colorfull And Crowded

May 11th, 2009

May 11th 

We found a waterbus to the St.Mark’s stop since we knew our hotel was somewhat near there.  Boy was it crowded.  It was late morning and the crowds filled the waterways and st. mark’s square.  We tried to find our hotel, but got lost.  Store owners had no idea what hotel we were talking about.  Eventually though, we came across it, and it was right near where we had been.  I left lisa in the downstairs foye and walked upstairs to a tiny hotel reception/office that was filled with 3 people.  Their reservation system was a handy desk/notebook calendar and she was busy writing in pencil and erasing inforation.  It was a chaotic office with one young lady (our age or younger) taking our passports and writing down information, an older lady (60’s) scribbling in the calendar, and a gentleman (her husband?) grabbing the keys and getting directions from the lady.  It was 80 euro’s cash and she tried to explain that because we were paying cash and staying in the annex, that we were getting the cheapest deal.

orangecurtains_smThe gentleman took us to our room which was around the corner.  We were given a keychain with 4 keys on it:  the street-side door, the hallway door, the bedroom door and one to stick into the light socket to power the lights.  Our room was funky and colorful with bright burnt orange curtains on 3 windows that overlooked the street and would become noisy at night.  It was a cozy room and we didn’t see the landlord again.  It had a bidet, and this time I used it, but mainly as a refreshment from long days of walking and getting lost.

bolognaese_sm

We set out to walk around venice, and after about an hour, we came across a restraunt called Il Paradiso, and thus far, might rate as the best meal yet (though every meal is a slice of heaven).  We ordered a bottle of their own house wine, caprese, gnochi with bolagnese and pennecita with bolagnese.  Everything was perfect.  It was a cute, street-side cafe with lovely atmosphere.  I think I drink four glasses of wine to every one that Lisa drinks.  I was trying to get her to drink faster, cause I wasn’t able to slow myself down.  My new mantra:  Slow meals, slow living, fast drinking.

Venice is certainly a picturesque location.  Nothing like it exists in the world as far as I know.  Water that leads right up to buildings, with zero sand or gradual shore.  It’s truely breathtaking.  It is very colorful, and during the day, very crowded.  It is full of people and personality.

davidboxers_smWe came across a street vendor, and I bought a pair of joke boxers for Cameron–the statue of David’s genital area.

We jumped on a gondola ride that ended up being a much shorter trip than promised, so it wasn’t really worth the cost of the 80 euros.  However, it was really pleasurable thing to do, and was the first time I ever rode a gondola.  I found myself during this entire trip to Venice remarking that it must have been crazy back in the day when there was much less canal traffic, and more just gondolas.  Now, the canal is crazy busy between water buses, water taxi’s, gondola  boats, and private personal boats.  Our gondola ride took us thru some back waterways and was very pleasant.  However, when we exited the boat, I left the blue bag with Cam’s boxers.  Sucks.

We started walking some more, and eventually we found ourselves to have traversed most of the main island and was far from where we thought we were.  That is something you should be aware of if you ever come to Venice.  You will get lost.  There is no doubt about that.  Every street is a winding narrow street, with no views of landmarks, and they lead you from one square to the next, to a bridge, to another.  However, during our few hour trek, we happened to find ourselves again back near where we caught our gondola ride.  A few askings around, showing the picture of our gondalier to other gondaliers, and we eventually came across our lost blue bag.  So good for Cam, even though, they probably won’t fit anyway.

We found ourselves back to our hotel approximately 5:30 pm and was perfect timing for a siesta.  Our legs were beat from all the walking we have been doing, all the exploring we have accomplished while being lost.

gondola_sm

Slept for a few hours, and then forced ourselves up around 8:30 pm. Went out towards St. Mark’s square (1 block away really), and it was dusk.  It stays light late here, usually till about 9:30.  There were many cafe’s and restraunts that have chairs out in the middle of the square, and serve food, and have live bands playing contemporary favorite songs.  We sat at one that included a violinist, a clarinet, fluetist (jazz flute?), an accordian, a standing bass, and a pianist.  Shared a caprese pomodoro panini and a 12 euro bottle of coke.  Although it may have been a tourist trap of a place (high prices, cover charge etc), the atmosphere, the scenery, the music, the company, were all worth it.

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5hOefbno8M

Now That’s Small

May 11th, 2009

May 11th

minicomp_smWoke up around 6am this morning after about 4 hours of sleep. I felt smokey, and grimy and sweaty. It was a gross night of sleep. Packed up our things, and then had some breakfast. Hotel complimentary breakfast’s sure do beat the continental breakfast’s in the US. We checked out of the hotel, and caught a cab to the train station. Got in line at 8:20 am to catch the 9:30 train to Venice. However there was one leaving at 8:35 so we got that instead. Pulled out our slick tiny computer and have been typing in notepad these journals, for website postings later. Its a great way to spend the 2.5 hour train ride. Too bad there isn’t wireless on this train in order to streamline the process. But I am grateful for the chance to catch up on some journals. I am caught up now,for now, and we just passed the Vicenza train station. We have approximately 30 minutes left of this train ride, and then a walk to our hotel in Venice.

San Siro-iously Cool

May 10th, 2009

May 10th

pitch_sm

We left for the game about 4 hours before game time. I wanted to make sure there wasn’t any hassle with the tickets, as well as to leave plenty of time to get there and to soak in the entire experience. The game started about 8:30pm and we arrived at the stadium approx 5:30 after a subway ride and then a 20 minute walk. The town reminded Lisa of Wrigleyville. We barely made it into the stadium as we were supposed to have a change of name form (every ticket has the original name on the ticket for security and for regulation of the resale market). Perhaps we had nice ticket attendants, or perhaps since there was a language barrier, they decided to let us in anyway. On the subway and outside the stadium it was a zoo of people, and this was about 3 hours before the game!

andyfield_smWe found our seats and they were awesome. We were just north of the penalty box. The stadium was much different and better than I ha expected. On TV, you see these glass walls and a lot of fencing behind the goals, but this was not bad in person. We had wondered if they had stadium food, and what it would be. Would it be hot dogs and cokes? Pizzas and pastas? It ended up being a lot of panini’s. Lisa was disappointed in the women’s bathrooms, as it was just a hole in the ground. I didn’t make it to the men’s to find out. We sat in our seats for 2 hours before the game. The stadium still had a ton of people in it, and they were all ready chanting away and lighting their flares, and loud booms of gunshot like noise filled the stadium. It was quite a spectacle. The stadium was filled with banners, and people wearing red and black. There was one section of Juve fans, behind glass walls, and when they would chant, fans would stand up swearing and cursing and flipping them off. You’ve gotta love European football.

milanfans_smEventually the players came out for warm ups, for announcements, and then the game began. I was saddened that Del Piero-one of my all time favorites-was not in the starting 11. As well as that Inzaghi was for Milan – not one I like. There were a few series of tricky passes in a row, but not a lot of opportunities. I was disappointed in Kaka’s play, but Beckham was delivering some nice balls. Milan easily could have been up if Inzahgi could finish. The score was 0-0 at halftime, and then all the fans around us started lighting up their cigs.

The second half was just as sloppy but eventually Milan scored by Seedorf on a deflection to him right in front of goal. But then, a few minutes later, Juve answered right back with a cross that was headed in by Iaquinta. More sloppiness ensued, and eventually Del Piero came on as a sub, and Beckham and Inzaghi were replaced by Pato and Ronaldinho.

 

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zi9lA3BuRcg

The game ended in a 1-1 draw and then it was a stampede to get out of the stadium. We got out of the stadium, but little did we know that we started our walk back to the train station in the wrong direction.

We got about 3 miles away in the wrong direction. When we tried to fix our direction, we only headed in a different wrong direction. 2 hours later we were still walking lost, asking every traffic cop for answers and getting confused looks.

Finally, we made it back to our train stop. However, by this time it was 12:15 am and the trains were closed.

So we hailed a cab, and 20 Euros later we were back at our hotel, exhausted and smelling like smoke. My legs were so sore and tired.

What a great experience and I am so thankful that it worked out. I have always wanted to go to a Europeansoccer match and have missed out on a few opportunities. To get this opportunity and it be with2 of the biggest clubs in the world, with some of the best players in the world, in one of the most famous stadiums–it was a dream come true. I can’t wait till next time now. At $200(US) per ticket, I got every dime’s worth. Maybe we can find a way to score some tickets to the Champions League Finals in Rome while we are there (very unlikely)!!

What The Duomo

May 10th, 2009

May 10th

We awoke around 6am, packed, ate breakfast, and then eventually made our way up and down the town stairs to the ferry.  Took the 30 minute ferry ride to Varenna and then the 10 minute walk to the train station.  We waited at the train station for about 45 minutes and then caught the hour train ride back to Milan.  In Milan we stayed about 20 minute walk from the station and about a 20 min walk to the city center.  We only did one of those walks, you guess which one?  Ok, it was the one when we didn’t have luggage to carry (and when we knew which direction to head).  Checked into The Best Western which was nicer than any USA Best Western.  Flat screen tv, wood floors, a nice bed, and our first bidet of the trip (that went unused).

After about an hour of getting in, utilizing the wifi internet, the reception still wasnt done with our passports  or had our game tickets (yep, got tickets to the soccer game!) so we decided to go walking towards the city center.  We didn’t exactly know where we were going, but I figured that eventually we would see a big duomo in the sky.  We did.  They had this long corridor of shops before you got to the duomo square.  I saw a sportings good store and went inside in search of an AC Milan jersey, and an Inter team t-shirt for a friend. We found both!  Hopefully my friend likes the shirt, or else I will keep looking.  I was excited to get the jersey before the game.  It was a little pricey as it was more of an authentic jersey, and not the cheap ones they sell from the generator powered push cart vendors.  In the shop, we talked to two sales people who were wondering if we lived in the O.C (“Don’t Call It That”) and wanted to exchange houses with us.

alduomomilan_smWe then continued on towards the Duomo where lisa gave a hello, a “how you doin” in italian.  We got accosted by street salesman selling their knickknacks, and by others who were selling bird seed.  When we wouldn’t buy the seed, they would throw some near us and then the birds would descend on us.

 

We made it to a street-side cafe, and had a lunch of pizza, and a panini.  Very delicious (channeling my inner Dr. Carlander).

duomocafe

Made the walk back to the hotel, and picked up our soccer tickets.  Face value of 43E, we paid 150E per ticket.  But it would be worth every euro to me.  I changed into my jersey, uploaded some pictures to the computer as backup, and then made our way to the game.

Milano v Juve

May 10th, 2009

milan_sm

This Week I'm Thinking About: Doug Kyle