May 17th
My parents were set to arrive this morning by train, and we were scheduled to meet them at the doors of the baptistry. We set a meeting place for the right doors, if facing the Duomo at 10:00 am. This went off mostly without a hitch and we were reunited and all speaking Italian. Ok, we threw in a couple Italian words, and said our hello’s and hugs. But who are we kidding, our Italian is very minimal. Every time my Dad tries to speak or say an Italian word, he starts saying words in Spanish. My mom says “his Spanish has never been better.” My mom will say “figlio” over and over, and her other one is “we’re andiamo-ing.” Myself? I have had impeccable Italian (tho, I may not be able to spell it). Due adulti biglietie per favore.
Let me back track for a moment. This will go down as one of my favorite memories, and something I will always smile and laugh at. Lisa has had some Italian experiences, being from an Italian family, and having lived in Italy for language school once. So I had requested of her to write a paragraph of italian sentences for me, to greet my parents with to impress them with how much Italian I knew. She kept asking me what I wanted to say, and I really didn’t care, mainly a salutation.
So last night, after we had been back from dinner for a little bit, and we were half asleep, she starts chattering. She starts telling me “I know what you should say to your parents when they arrive: Welcome to Firenze, with a stroke of gelato.” It made zero sense, but cracked me up. I think she was thinking “stroke of genius,” but said gelato instead. I think she was either part asleep, or tipsy from wine, or exhausted from all the walking we have been doing. I know it doesn’t make much sense but it made me crack up so much, and will always make me smile.
httpvhd://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Efcx7Z_CtM
One of my dad’s desires was to get an Italian leather jacket. For the price and quality, I knew that Florence would be the place for him to do this. So after they arrived, we decided to go shop at the Florence central market. I described the market briefly yesterday, and today it was time for more shopping.
Even though this market stretches for many many square blocks, my parents wanted to buy the first stand they came across. I had to remind them that every 3rd stand was a wallet, or shirt, or knick-knack, or leather stand. I also reminded them that this was a place that, you didn’t have to, but you could barter and haggle for a better price. We shopped for scarves, wallets, belts, soccer jerseys, t-shirts, and of course my dad’s leather jacket.
We came across a stand, and he pointed out to me the style he wanted. It was a two tone between dark brown and light brown. I asked “are you a woman?”
We started browsing, and of course, the salesman calls him into the store directly behind his stand. Now he is trying on jackets left and right, and getting himself sold. He is already in too deep with this sales rep. Once you give them an inch, they will take a yard.
My dad explained the style of jacket (two tone) that he wanted, and the sales person said “no, that is a ladies style.” We ended up hearing many different sales lines as they started bartering for the jacket that he decided he wanted.
“This is the last one we have.”
“You won’t find a better deal.”
“This is the sort of deal I would only give my brother.”
And as soon as my dad said “no, I’ll think about it and come back,” the salesman started offering the jacket to the next person in the store and started saying “shame on you for not taking this deal, it is the best you will find. Its the equivalent to two pizza’s and a bottle of wine.”
I felt that my dad had gone too deep into the bartering game, and had gotten too good of a price, to walk away now. It was the jacket that he wanted, and a darn good price. Eventually we convinced him that he should do it, instead of searching for 5 euros cheaper. But this process will be one that I cherish and remember and laugh at about the trip.
httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=219nKUBecmY
We made our way over near the Accademia to find a place that Rick Steeve’s recommended in his book, for lunch. On our walk there, we ran into a lady and her daughter, that were currently living in Montalcino, that my parents had befriended. We ate lunch, and then made our way over to the Accademia for our appointed time to see Michelangelo’s David, as well as some of his pieta’s and other pieces.
My Dad's Illegal Picture Of David
There is one statue of David, and many many replica’s around the world. Even here in Florence, there is a replica in the Piazza della Signoria–the original location of the statue. Mark my words: The replica’s are good an all, but they do not possess the grandeur of the original. The original is far more powerful, angelic, graceful, and humble than any other of the many replicas. My parents had previously taken a day trip to Florence and looked at the David replica and said: “The copy of the statue of “David” by Michelangelo in the public square was good enough, rather than face more lines to see the original.” I believe she would now say, after seeing the original, that she was very mistaken.
I remember back in 1997 (and I wrote about it recently), being literally blown away at the first site of the David. I walked into this room, more like a long hallway, and my eyes were drawn to these half finished statues that Michelangelo had done, that lined the sides of the hall. As soon as I took my eyes off the floor and the side statues, and looked up and down the hallway, I saw it, in its white brilliance, and fell backwards (not fall as in hit the floor, but fall as in had to take a few steps back to keep my balance).
I didn’t feel the same magnitude of awe, respect, and strength this time as I did my first, but I was still amazed and taken by its beauty and its determination. Last time I was here, they allowed pictures, and you could walk right up to the David. This time, no pictures were allowed, and they had a perimeter around the statue. I was also reading on this time, of the statue being attacked by a man with a hammer back in 1991. The pieces that broke off, eventually were studied, and the marble was found to be porous, which caused them to worry about cleaning with water that it undertook in 2003.
We sat and stared at his ass, his slingshot draping down his back, and the veins in his arms and legs for awhile, in sheer amazement.
We then headed towards the Santa Croce Church, and the Pazzi Chapel. Santa Croce is a large church that has a cool temperature inside, many naves lined with fresco art, and many tombs of famous Italians, such as Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Foscolo, Gentile, Rossini, and Marconi. Our tickets were designed with pictures of small snippets of the art inside the church. We played a game of “try and find your snippet” that was a fun treasure hunt.
Connected to the Santa Croce, is the Pazzi Chapel. I think this is a really beautiful chapel. It is simple. It is elegant. It is small. It has elegant simplicity. It was designed by Brunelleschi and is a pattern of arches, circles and squares. The walls are mostly bare except for a few areas of art. I think I could sit in the chapel, alone, and meditate for hours.
We grabbed a gelato from the “famous” gelato shop that my dad had to try and then started our long walk to the Piazza Michelangelo. Down the river, cross the bridge, up the hill, up the steep many stairs; this was a lot to ask of my mom and the status of her knees. We finally reached the top and soaked in the view (with a trillion pictures) of the city of Florence and the river arno. It was beautiful. Then, my Mom decided she wanted to go further up.
We hiked further up the road to San Miniato al Monte church. There was a vespers going on and so we wandered the cold sanctuary while monks were chanting. There is a great view up here as well, and afterwards we took a funny picture of Steve, Debbie, and Lisa all pretending to be statues. Each of them had no idea what pose the other was going to do, yet they all ended up with a very similar pose.
It had been a long day of walking, and now my favorite part of the day: dinner! We went to one of the restaurants that Rick Steeve’s recommended and I must say, this one was a dud. Although I enjoyed the family style atmosphere, the service and the food were very lacking.
Nothing a gelato couldn’t solve on the way home. We stopped for a bit to enjoy the statues in Piazza Signoria. What a day! It was great to be here with family, and to experience so many awe inspiring things.
