The Italian Sausage And The Trek For Ta-Ta’s

manarola_sm9 hours of travel yesterday, today we had planned what eventually became a 7 hour hike.  That is right, we are officially crazy.

The Cinque Terre is a series of 5 towns that are right on the west coast of Italy, built into the cliffs and walls of the Ligurian Sea.  Each town is really beautiful, full of pastel buildings,  right on the water.  It is my goal to touch the water in each town.

Today we woke up and caught the 930 am train back to town one of the five (we are staying in town 4, Vernazza).  We were going to do the hike that connects all 5 towns.  We started in Riomaggiore at about 10am.  We walked through the town and touched the water at the bottom, and then started the walk on the via del amore.

guvano_smOur first walk was about 20 minutes of length,from Riomaggiore to Manarola on the edge of a cliff over looking gorgeous blue water.  It was really pleasant. In Manarola we sampled a couple of different focacia breads.  One with olives, and one plain. The walk between Manarola an Corniglia was about 45 minutes.  In this  town 3:  Corniglia, we had to walk up 400 stairs as this town is high above the water on the cliffs.

In Corniglia we enjoyed a slice of pizza and some more bubbly water and enjoyed a gorgeous view off of a precipice.

We knew from our guide book, that there was a nude beach somewhere near Corniglia.  I wanted to give it a try.  You can call it an attempt to be european, you can call it an attempt to swim in the town, you can call it an attempt to site italian ta-ta’s.  Whatever you want to call it, it was well worth it (though, only 2 of those 3 came true).

After hiking through some jungle like alleys in some thick green bushes, we finally came across some signs for Guvano beach.  We were high up a cliff, how were we possibly going to get to the water far below?  This path that the sign directed us towards, was narrow, and extremely steep.  One slip of the foot, and it was a long tumble. During one stretch, they had some wires that you could hang onto as it was that steep.

It took us about  30 sweaty harrowing minutes to reah the water below.  This beach was all rocks. The water was crashing on some rocks in the ocean as well.  The beach was occupied by one tan bald, well built man sunning in one direction, face down and naked when we walked by.  Over in another corner were 3 ladies that were clothed in bathing suits.

We found a little spot, and put our stuff down.  I dropped my clothes and laid out the way God intended.  Including us, there were 6 people on this beach, and sadly it was only the two guys that were going European style.  My trek for italian ta-ta’s continues.

beach_smThe italian man kept turning over, eventually facing himself directly towards us.  I didn’t fully trust him, and therefore unfortunately, had to keep my eye on him.  He was definitely trying to show off for the ladies (or was it me), and I decided to call him the Italian Sausage.

I put my clothes back on, and was readying myself to leave, when the other ladies got up and started walking off.  He started putting his clothes on.  So we sat down again and waited, and when they were all gone, I took off my clothes again and started frolicing in the waves.  It was refreshing and cleansing after all the hiking of the day.

Five or ten minutes later we began our hike back up the steep hill again which took us another 30 minutes up steep cliffs, stairs, even having to crawl in a couple of spots.  Once back to the trail, it took us a good nother 60 minutes to reach town 4, Vernazza. We were, tired, and my legs were even shaking from all this exercise.  This day was a tough workout underneath the italian sun.

cinque_smWe didn’t traverse the entire town of Vernazza, since this is the town we were sleeping in and had already explored it.  However, we did stop at Il Pirata (the much famed Il Pirata-at leas the owners “the Cannoli Brothers” would tell you).  Here we refreshed ourselves with some fresh granita:  half strawberry, half lemon, with a touch of cream on top.  Refreshing, delicious, and just what we needed before beginning our final 90-100 minute hike to town #5.

Most of these hikes have been up and down steep and tiny paths.  This final hike was no different.  It was so pretty though, with ocean and cliff on one side of you, green plants at our feets, and to the right there were miles of vineyards growing up the hills.  This is the italian coast.  The climate here is so nice that it can grow all sorts of plants from different climates.  We passed farfalle (butterflies), yellow and purple flowers, cactus, tall grass, and many more.octupus_sm

When town 5 arrived, I wanted to crash.  It was Montorosso Al Mare, and it was a long stretch of beach.  We got a gelato and tried to explore some of the town, but we were exhausted.  We walked around a little bit, but then plopped down on the beach.  I climbed into the water and I had now swam in 3 of the 5 towns, and touched the water in all 5.  After 7 hours of hiking, it was quite a cleansing experience.

We caught the train an went back to Vernazza where we showered (though, mine used all the hot water and left lisa with cold) and then started some new sweaty laundry.  We hiked up the hill near the water to Il Castelo restaurant.  We tried to make reservations for 90 minutes later so that we could finish the laundry.  The waiter did not recommend later for some reason (it later rained), and so we sat immediately.

vernazza_smWe ordered the antipasti mare which was a cold and a fried plate of seafood appetizers.  There was octupus, swordfish, prawns, mussels, anchovies, fried anchovies, and many other strange looking items, most with bones or eyes still attached.  All this to go along with, of course, some wine and a terriffic view.

After the appetizers, lisa ran back to the laundromat and changed our wash to the dryer.  For dinner was a large plate (for 2) of seafood risotto, and some pasta with meat sauce and pesto.  The seafood risotto was full of many more items that I had no idea how to eat.  Lisa didn’t have any risotto, and just when I was wishing there was someone to share it with, so it wouldn’t go to waste, the couple next to us from Quebec asked us how it was.  We shared it with them, and enjoyed some conversations.  They even demonstrated for us how to de-head and legs the prawns to get to the meat.

cannoli_smWe had a lovely time and as the rain started to go down, we walked up to the other side of town to Il Pirata and ordered 2 cannoli for take away.  Took them to our rooms, ate them, and slept peacefully.

Tags: , , , , , , ,

7 Responses to “The Italian Sausage And The Trek For Ta-Ta’s”

  1. All of that for an Italian sausage with no ta-ta’s….

  2. Joey says:

    chaunce loves big sausage pizzas tho…

  3. Erin Handler says:

    I hope you guys loved Vernazza (and the rest of Cinque Terre) as much as we did. We did the hikes in the opposite order, that way the butt kicking was over earlier and we walked down the stairs, not up them. Enjoy the rest of your trip!

  4. Andy says:

    it was awesome. Id go back there again for sure. The hike was tough though, but im glad i did it in the normal order.

  5. Andy says:

    there is a funny clip of “Drawn Together” that Id insert here if i had more time or energy right now, or an american internet. About hot sausage pizza.

  6. Andy says:

    i know chaunce, what a boring read? All the anticpation, none of the excitement.

  7. Lisa says:

    I love the conversation this post has drawn out.

Leave a Reply

This Week I'm Thinking About: Greg Crisci